On Saturday morning, I put my fancies on, put my friend's beautiful heeled shoes in a plastic bag, strapped on my
Chacos and hiked over to Hiwet's parent's compound. Hiwet had told me to be there between 10 and 11am, so I got there about 10:45am. There were just a few people milling around, and an empty big green canvas tent set up in the street in front of the house. Hiwet's brother greeted me at the door and ushered me into the room where Hiwet was awaiting the arrival of the photographers.
I could not get over how amazing Hiwet looked! I mean, she's gorgeous to begin with, even in her "regular" clothes, but seeing her all made up with make-up and her hair and dress... wow. I couldn't take my eyes off her! Of course, like any bride on her wedding day, she was beaming, and just couldn't seem to stop laughing! I was glad to have a few minutes with her and her sisters before everything swung into high gear. First thing to do, though, was to change out of my Chacos sandals and into my little heels. I was really happy I borrowed some proper shoes for the occassion, as Ethiopians tend to really dress up, and shoes are a huge part of the outfit for them. I would have felt so self-conscious in my sandals all day!

Of course, there was lots of laughing and giggling and touching up of makeup, while we waited a few minutes for the photographers to come. When they came, I realized that the photography at an Ethiopian wedding is serious business. We all got kicked out of the room, and Hiwet had a solo photo-shoot for the next hour! I have no idea what they were all doing in there, but all we heard was Hiwet's laughter! While she was in there for her photo-shoot, I was outside in the courtyard with various friends and relatives, watching the proceedings and the various preparations for the feasting. I shook a lot of hands and used my handful of words in Tigrinya and Amharic and basically sat around and did a lot of smiling, since I really had no idea what was going on, or what was about to happen. But I'm getting really good at the whole waiting-around-for-something-to-happen thing here in Africa. And actually, Hiwet had assigned her friend, Tizitu, to be my care-taker for the day. Tizitu is great, and speaks really good English, and we had a good time together, and I felt very much taken care of. It was sweet of Hiwet to remember to make sure I was taken care of, even on her wedding day!
I did take several photos of people while I was sitting there and waiting, as well. And man, there were SO many beautiful faces to take photos of! I wish I could have taken more, but I also didn't want to be obtrusive while sitting on my little stool in the courtyard. I was also trying to stay a little bit out of the way :)
Hiwet's sisters were her bridesmaids, and they were gorgeous, as well!
One of Hiwet's relatives seemed to be doing a lot of the food coordination etc., so she had been hanging around the courtyard with me. I still can't get over their hair-dos!
Such a classy smile on this relative. And the hair! Oh the hair!
This is not such a good picture of Hiwet's mother and her half-sister. The immediate family were all wearing dresses made from matching fabric. The groom's immediate family also had dresses made from a different, but matching fabric.
I also wandered over to the tent to see what was going on inside. Slowly by slowly, people started showing up - of course, the white folks were some of the first to arrive :) It was great to see a couple of people that I knew from where we all used to live - in fact, they were the people who introduced me to Hiwet in the first place. Who would have guessed we'd all be at her wedding 6 years later in Ethiopia?!
Eventually, they started bringing the food out from the kitchen area. I was astounded by the amount of food, and the beautiful presentation. I really couldn't believe that all that food had been prepared in an outdoor kitchen, basically over fire and kerosene burners. Amazing. I wish now that I had gone into the area where they were doing all the prep - but I didn't want to get in the way. But it sure looked amazing on the table!
Hiwet's brother and father were also somewhere in the compound getting their own suits on. Wow, did they ever look sharp... except that they didn't know how to tie their ties. Ethiopian men don't often wear ties, so they asked if I could help. I tried... and failed. I was excited to be asked to actually be useful... but in the end. I admitted defeat and went back to being simply ornamental, instead of instrumental in the whole wedding celebration!
I was also able to wander into the room where Hiwet was having her photoshoot, as they eventually let in some of us friends and close family. Seriously, this whole photography thing was amazing. It seemed in a lot of ways that much of what was happening during the whole day was just for the sake of the "wedding video". They had Hiwet do a little prayer montage, and during the other parts of the whole process, it was the two photographers and the videographer and the light guy who were front and centre. No one else could actually see anything because of all the front-row photographers! But it seemed to be the way they do things, as no one else was at all concerned about it.
Keep in mind, all of this was going on before the groom even arrived at the house! Apparently, he was at his own parent's place, getting dressed. I don't think he had a crew of photographers with him - I guess it's just the bride who gets her own photo-shoot!
But eventually (at around 12:30pm), we heard the whole ululating and cheering and singing starting up... and Tizitu rushed me into the room where Hiwet was quietly waiting for her groom. Dereje came in with his two groomsmen, and greeted Hiwet. Of course, the photographers were in my way, so I didn't get a good view, but I did catch a glimpse of her face when she saw Dereje come into the room. And I almost burst into tears. It was just so amazing to see Hiwet look so happy! That moment of seeing her light up at her husband-to-be's arrival made the whole trip worth it.

There was quite a ceremony made of Hiwet pinning on the boutonniere flower on Dereje's lapel, followed by the bridesmaids pinning roses on the lapels of the groomsmen. Then there were more pictures. And more pictures. At that point, Tizitu ushered me out into the compound, as she said we would have a better view from outside. So we went outside and waited with the gathered crowd. Everyone was singing special wedding songs and clapping and having a great time, waiting for the couple to appear.

Once they came out, they were seated with their wedding party inside the tent, on some pretty fancy gold chairs! Everyone else filed in after them and tried to find a seat on the benches and plastic chairs. It was packed, I tell you. I think some of the distant relatives or friends were made to clear out so that Tizitu and I could have a little corner of the bench to sit on. It was something, I tell you. Thankfully, there weren't a whole lot of speeches or anything. Just a short speech and a prayer by someone (still not quite sure who he was or what his relationship to the wedding party was), then Hiwet, Dereje and her wedding party were escorted up to the buffet table for lunch.

Eventually, everyone in the tent got something to eat. Tizitu and I pushed our way through the crowd to get our food before some of the others, since we were planning on going to the church. Apparently, there are pretty strict rules on who goes to which part of the wedding. Some folks go only to the tent/lunch part. And that seemed like a LOT of people. There were probably 250 or 300 people there! Most of the groom's family was not there, though. The lunch/tent section is mainly for the bride. I was also informed that at this part, the bride is supposed to be sad and serious, mourning the fact that this man has come to take her away from her parent's home (of course, Hiwet has been living on her own, in her own apartment for several years already, and in fact, the new apartment where she will be living with her husband is closer to her parent's house than her old place!). And everyone who knows Hiwet knew that she just couldn't keep from laughing and smiling the entire day :)
Eventually, it was time to pile into cars to get to the church. We all followed the wedding party out of the tent, singing and clapping. By this time, I could at least join in the chorus of the wedding song, even though I still have no idea what it meant. But I could sing and clap along to parts of it.
This is the view of the tent as we were leaving for the church.
The car with the happy couple.
I went along with Tizitu in the Landcruiser Hardtop which belongs to the NGO that Hiwet works with. It was the party bus, let me tell you! They had "The" wedding song on the iPod, which was hooked up to the speakers of the Landcruiser. It was so much fun! We were all dancing and clapping and singing, with the windows wide open and the music blaring. Horns honking and hazard lights flashing, we drove in procession through the streets of Addis Ababa. What a hoot! I, too, was laughing out loud by this point!
We made it to the church, and I felt like I was in some TV show or something, because the photographers were there, with their lights, following all the action up close.
There was a worship band, which I didn't get pictures of, singing some really seriously catchy Amharic songs, which everyone in the congregation seemed to know. Again, there were a TON of people at the church, most of whom were different from the ones who we left behind at the tent. I believe there were two sort of sermons - one by a Pastor who is a good friend of Hiwet and one by the pastor of Dereje's church, which is where they have been attending together.
There were vows - same style as we do, with the bride and groom repeating after the pastor. Of course, everything was in Amharic, so I really haven't a clue what was actually said during any of the ceremony!

There was also this odd thing in that during the ceremony, it wasn't only the official photographers who went right up to the front to stand in front of everyone and take pictures - it was half the congregation! There must have been 20 people crowded at the front with their cameras and cell phones, trying to get photos of the important bits of the wedding. I didn't see any of the bit where they exchanged rings or lit the candles or anything. Tizitu kept telling me to go up and stand in front, but I just couldn't bring myself to go up and stay up there! It seemed so rude to stand right in front when there were so many people seated behind, wanting to see the ceremony. That was definitely different than the way we do things at home, and yet no one seemed to mind! I guess that's just the way they do things :) But I was a bit sorry to miss seeing some of the action, especially since I couldn't understand any of the words that were being spoken.

Eventually, the ceremony was over, and we all filed out of the church. We were given little "favours" - a little bit of fabric tied up with some candies, and a little memory card with the date and Hiwet and Dereje's name on it. We also got little photo cards with a photo of Hiwet and Dereje, saying "Thank you" (in English!). I have that little momento posted on my fridge at the moment :) When they came out of the church, they were meant to get straight back into their car so we could all go to where the reception was going to be held. However, their driver and car had disappeared somewhere! I guess the driver thought the wedding would be longer?! Dereje had to get on the phone to try to track him down. But it turned out alright, I think, as it gave everyone a chance to congratulate the couple and take photos of all the folks who had gathered.

Once the car arrived, we all piled back into our vehicles and we made a smaller procession through the streets to the next venue - the cake reception. But that will be a story for another day.